I sat, rested and drank at Refuge Ciotullu di I Mori. A woman sat at the next table with a large Opinel knife, cutting slices from a piece of the dried meat frequently seen in Corsica. As a vegetarian the stuff is very unpleasant. There’s a sour, salty smell to it I try to avoid in the shops.

At the next table two Germans were sitting and eating quietly. No one was talking. Beyond them, a chap was standing in the sun with his shirt off. That’s a good idea, I thought, and did the same. The air was a little cold but it was worth it. My vest was soaked with perspiration and I laid it out to dry.

It was a good break. I set off fortified with coffee and a sugared drink. I concluded my previous fatigue was sugar related. I wasn’t sure of the route because there was a path dropping down to the valley directly from the hut. It wasn’t clear however where exactly it led, and if it was feasible. It might have been a shepherd track leading to pasture. An hour later I realised it was a short cut, as I descended the track down the hillside on the right.

Cloud began to build ten minutes after leaving the hut. I rather enjoyed it. There was no danger because I knew where I was going despite, for some moments, seeing very little. I’d seen the clear view so it didn’t matter when it was obscured and visibility reduced to a few metres.

I didn’t however want the cloud to thicken and drop to the valley, making for a dismal walk to Castell di Vergio. Fortunately that didn’t happen. There was some very bad weather on my GR20 trip, but it was mostly sunny and bright.


Corsica Views: from Ciotullu di I Mori

Friday October 16, 2015