This is my favourite micro area. It’s about twenty minutes from one of my favourite camp sites. Between the Rhinogs and the sea, there’s a feeling of wild but tame beauty I’ve not found anywhere else. The effect is like walking a very ornate garden with superb distant views.

There’s a network of pretty paths and signposts to advise children, the elderly, or the unsure. Dragonflies patrol in the summer. A sparking river cuts through trees and cascades over rocks A few years ago I found a similar area beside the other camp site below the Rhinogs, where I used to stay. I found wild flowers such that I’d never seen before, ancient twisted trees and older crumbling rock. The feeling was similar but here the outlook is open: toward the Rhinogs one side and the sea the other.

This is a special place for me. Mountain summits are wonderful but not restful and comforting, because you come down again for shelter, food and drink. Shelter here is a lovely big tent with a camp seat, coffee, books, sleeping mattress more comfortable than my bed. Food is in my car, carried to the tent, or at the pubs down the road. The menu doesn’t change. Beetroot and goats cheese tart, salad, chips.

I might take a nap in the sun or a book down to the nearby beach. It’s a holiday place, as opposed to a walking base, although it is that too. I’ve walked Rhinog Fach and Fawr perhaps ten times, wild camped below Fawr, walked Moelfre twice and here, below Moelfre, every time I’ve visited. There’s a particular rock I like to stand on, taking a sweeping view.

The little hamlet of Llanbedr is two miles down the road providing minimal basics. It’s not a place you could develop for tourism, which is how I like it. The camp site does get busy but if you choose your time carefully it’s not a problem.


Wild Below Moelfre

Sunday February 14, 2016